Greece 2019

Family-visit/fulfilling a filial piety (by bringing a 67-y/o mother) trip to Greece by taking a 10-day paid leave (such an un-japanese like). Gained 6 kg over a mere 12 days of unconstrained gobbling. Not much of Athens, but turned out to be a fun hopping-around trip over Peloponnese peninsula.

四捨五入したら70のお母さんと一緒に最後の欧州(より移動時間的には遠い)孝行旅行。半年前から計画していたものの、予期せぬ引き継ぎなどでゴタゴタの中有給10日程消化という周りから顰蹙を買いそうな中トンズラ。それでもあんまり炎上しなかったのは、所詮雇われ人など(大統領でもExxonの社長でも誰しもそうだが)代替可能なわけで、それを肌で感じれたのが、望外の収穫でした。絶好のクライミングロケーション各所を目の前にして傍から眺めるだけだったのが一番の心残り。

Memo:

Climate (Mid-Sept.):  Sunscreen is must. Slightly less hot, thus  less high-season than preceding months in Sept.

Folks:  Friendly, hospitable and good with children (with no exception as far as I recall). There seem to be many (in proportion to the entire population of 10 M) people engaged in service/tourism industries, and the dystopian preconception of debt-crisis was almost non-existent in the eyes of a beach-hopping tourist.

Weight gain: Eating dairy products to the point of feeling bloated (a while after every meal) is surest way to gain the weight.

Delicacies:

Greek Yogurt: Thick and sticky and goes well without any sugar, but also goes pretty well with honey

Greek Salad: Initially palatable, yet slightly fed up with feta cheese at the end of trip

Tzatziki & Taramo Salata: Yogurt & Fish egg pastes as an appetizer

Seafood:  Pricier but worth the higher cost

Moussaka: Greek Lasagna

 

9/5-6: Voula(nearby Athens), Glyfada

Glyfada town
Glyfada beach

9/7-8: Gythio > Diros Cave

Random highway stopover
Supper at Gythi
Hotel @ Gythio
beach @ Gythio
Diros Cave
Diros Cave
Diros Cave
Diros Cave (Outside)

Gythio town
@ Gythio
Wrecked ship nearby Gythio
Wrecked ship nearby Gythio

9/9: Monemvasia, Elafonisos (island)

Monemvasia (from afar)
Monemvasia (Entrance to the fortress)
Monemvasia (inside the fortress)
Monemvasia (lower town)
Monemvasia (from Upper town)
Monemvasia (wedding)
Courteous instruction
Monemvasia (lower town @ night)
Ferry to Elafonisos
Ferry to Elafonisos (no beach pictures)

9/10-11: Kyparissi, Leonidio, Krioneri

Kyparissi cliffs
Kyparissi cliffs
Small town of Kyparissi
Kyparissi beach
Kyparissi
Goats
Leonidio
Leonidio
Goats again
Goats again

9/12-13: Nafplio, Mykines, Epidavros, Corinth Canal

Hotel @ Nafplio
Nafplio street
Mykines
Mykines
Mykines
Nafplio
Nafplio
Nafplio

 

Epidavros
Epidavros
Epidavros

Corinth Canal
Corinth Canal
 9/14: Voula, Athens (solo)
Athens (Train St)
Athens (graffiti)
Athens market
Athens market
Athens
Athens (Parthenon)
Athens
Athens (Lykavittos)
Athens (Lykavittos)
Athens (Lykavittos)
Athens (Lykavittos)
Athens
Athens
Athens
Temple of Zeus
Temple of Zeus

9/15: Voula, Chamolia (No picture)

9/16: Voula, Athens (with mother)

Acropolis
Acropolis
Parthenon
Parthenon
Temple of Zeus
Changing of guards
Lykavittos
Roman Agora
Athens
Ancient Agora
Ancient Agora
Athens
Last shot in Voula

Terradets (Bruixes) / Siurana / Margalef 2018-2019

My previous overseas climbing trip to Frankenjura in July was so fun and fulfilling that it naturally led me (as a single dude with no partner/family obligations) to plan the next trip around year-end/new-year holidays. The last (and “1st” for me) solo trip was hippie and fun, but slightly inconvenient logistically and performance-wise (without having a car and accompanied partners). As much as the climbing trip to Barcelona sounded enticing, my Japanese psyche kept me from telling my boss (@ recently changed job) that I take a stretch of leave days before finishing my probation period. The cost of my indecision took me approx. 500 USD (escalation of flight tickets in the space of 1.5 months or so), but bandwagoning the trip with similarly spontaneous (2) folks expectedly turned out to be fun and memorable.
 
年末年始の岩旅を画策していた所、舞い込んだスペインツアーのお話。転職直後に有給を奮発して良いのか甚だ不安であったが、働き方改革(有給ノルマ消化)の機運も追風となり(?), 無事強強メンバーの尾ヒレに噛り付く体でツアー参加決行。バルセロナに降りたつのは決まっていたが、Terradets: 「テラデッツ」 というエリアの Bruixes 「ブルーシャス」という壁 / Siurana:「シウラナ」 / Margalef: 「マルガレフ」の3箇所を8日かけて周るプランを成田にて一応確認し出発。
Dusk @ Margalef

Terradets (Paret de les Bruixes): 

12/26 – 27
Whatever work-related memories have been obliterated right after a last-minute lousy handover to my boss on 25th (followed by Christmas party@office). During the flights to Barcelona, I watched “Crazy Rich Asians” (whose title seems to lack another adjective: “Chinese/Oriental”, for the sheer sake of political correctness in ethnic representations). The movie adeptly utilizes and defies stereotypes of “Chinese”, and as it features Singapore (where I stayed for an exchange program @ University), it was entertaining throughout the whole movie. Aside from that, the last strings of ups-and-downs are well composed and very moving (even though I seldom watch/enjoy romantic kinds).
Improvised guideposts @ Beijing Airport (Admittedly “Business” seems more classy)
It was 7:30AM and still totally dark when we landed Barcelona Airport. Headed straight to Hertz counter and by the time we went outside the car park with a compact Citroën’s C3 as our company vehicle for the trip, we were greeted with a typically and expectedly-Spanish warm sunny winter weather, which furthered our already hyped-up expectations toward our upcoming 8 days (how short!) trip.
Thought this much of clear sky would continue for the rest of the trip…

However, after circa 1 hour into the direction of Lleida (mountain side), it got inauspiciously foggy. Having made a shopping trip at Carrefour (for foods) and Wala (sports gear shop @ south of Lleida for procuring a gas can), it was still 14:30 by the time we bumped into the ginormous curtains of rock cliffs at Terradets.

Wala @ Lleida
Terradets (Paret de les Bruixes)
Despite slightly cold (4c) temp and ostensibly seeping rocks at the parking area, we hurried to the Bruixes wall (the approach to Bruixes is short: 10mins and obvious, once bolted ladder leading to the path is identified) purely out of excitement. As Bruixes wall gets in the sight our steps got quicker and each stride got longer till the joy culminated when we arrived at the bottom of the wall and realized it’s entirety.
Bruixes wall
The glory to go for 1st try was bestowed upon me by rock-scissors-paper result, but 7b (which seems to be a limited few of up-routes in this crag) is my OS grade in Japan, and OS trying without limber-up (moreover with the pressure to send/fall quickly by awaiting overly eager 2 climbers) added an extra hurdle (“excuse” in case of failed attempt) to me.
Route name at the bottom of each line (some are illegible)
Nonetheless, I managed to conquer the route with excessive over 20mins of clinging to the wall (which understandably should have irritated the ensuing 2 folks) and overly pumped-up arms. By the time all 3 of us did 1 round it was getting darker, so I finished with a drenched 6b+ as a cool down. The approach-back was a bit scary under the slippery surface (even with bolted ladders), so the caution is advised (especially when it gets dark).
From the parking (next to the bridge of the dam), it takes approx. 20km to reach the small town of Salàs de Pallars where we booked a reasonable accommodation just before leaving Japan. (There are a few bookable-via-web options at Cellers and more at Tremp, but we didn’t mind driving extra 10km or so just to save some cost.) 
The hotel (Alberg la Solana) looks rather chic with its antique facade and facilities are sufficiently comfy and neat. Moreover, the uncle is very nice and mellow with his peaceful dog.
Jam Sesión @ Bruixes
どうやら行き当たりばったりなのは他2名も同様のだが(安堵)、シュラフ、テント無しで寒空の下宿無しとなるのは是非とも避けたいのは満場一致なので、成田にて出発直前にSalàs de Pallarsという岩場基部から30km程離れた宿を抑える。WiFiと暖房環境の乏しい8時間のトランジット@北京を経て、7時ではまだ夜明け前のEl Prat 空港に到着(所謂「日の出」は8:20頃)。左ハンドル、マニュアル運転、時折のラウンドアバウトに慣れてもらい、バルセロナからLleida(スペイン語ではLが重なると「J」の発音に近くなるため「ジェイダ」がしっくり来る)に向かう。
Citroën – C3
だしは冬晴れで気持ちの良い天気だったが内陸部に進むにつれ霧模様。道すがらのカルフールで当面の食料を買い込み、若干遠回りとなるがガス缶入手のためLleidaのWalaという馬鹿でかいスポーツショップ(80mロープも売っており、日本より安く買える)に立寄りTerradetsに向かう。
Wala @ Lleida
Parking/Approach Entry to Bruixes (From bolt ladder on the left wall)
Terradets界隈に入ると、これまた馬鹿でかい岩壁に期待を膨らませながら岩場基部の駐車場に着いたのが14:30頃。ボルトラダーから続く15分弱程のアプローチを経てBruixes壁(スペイン語で「魔女」の意)に到着。幸か不幸かOSジャンケンで勝ってしまったのでいきなり7b (Jam Sesión) に取り付く事に。20分以上の奮闘(と恐らくは後続2名の苛立ち)の末、無事OS。3人でロングルートを回すとトライ数も限られるため、びしょ濡れのダウンをもう一本だけ出して登攀終了。ウェブ検索で一番コスパが良さそうな基準で選んだAlberg la Solanaにて宿泊。1人(+1匹)で宿を切り盛りするお爺さんが親身でほっこりする。
Alberg la Solana @ Salàs de Pallars
12/28
The fog was much deeper than the day before and the temp in the car indicated 1c, but that didn’t stifle our eagerness to climb, so we were at the crag by around 9AM. Having carefully observed massive (sport-routes in Japan rarely exceed 25m) overhang lines (many of which are too hard for us), we selected to try Energia Positiva 7c+. The 35m line exemplifies what hyper-strenuous route takes to be. On the flip side though, each part is relatively manageable with occasional cruxes (though concentrated after mid-end sections) and rest points. Having anticipated this much long route requires sizable time to digest, especially taking turn with 3 persons, I gladly let go the privilege to crack the beta for the other 2 folks. Thanks to this sneaky tactic, I managed to send the route on the 2nd try (possibly clinging onto the line beyond 30mins), which was a sufficient accomplishment for me to end the day. It had been all foggy and the evening temp seemed to be around freezing point, so there were only 2 other parties at the crag during the day.
Energia Positiva @ Bruixes
期待していた冬場でも太陽が降り注ぐスペインのポカポカ陽気とは程遠い霧と寒さに萎え気味だったが、岩場に着けばまだまだ登攀欲は顕在。壮大で高難度なラインが目白押し(Bruixesの奥に行けば行くほど傾斜が強くなりグレードも全般的に高くなる)の中、ラインの魅力が決定打となり、Energia Positiva 7c+ を皆でトライする事に。記念受験の気分で2人の後に触って見たが、部分部分は繋がる超ストレニルートで大好物(といっても日本ではこんな壮大なハングルートは滅多にお目にかかれない)だったので、2回目に取り敢えず繋がる所まで頑張ってみる事に。中間のランジに近い遠いガバデッドでモタモタするものの、望外に繋がり勝負出来る感じだったので、本気でRP狙いに変更。恐らく30分以上に亘る防戦(レストが殆ど)の末、今年1番位の会心のRP。7c+(といってもグレード感が良く分からないが)というよりは、日本の11c×3つを心許ないレストを挟みながら通して(といっても小核心が中後半に多め)登る感じ。何はともあれ出し切れた感が爽快で満悦しこの日は終了。
Energia Positiva @ Bruixes
12/29
The fog and cold temperature even furthered (lowest: -2c!!) and convinced me (with previous day’s exhaustion) to take a rest. I requested to have me dropped off at the town of Tremp, but it didn’t take more than 15mins of freezing wandering before I started to regret. It was more of seeking around AC/insulation-equipped shelters rather than sightseeing, but the rest day was well deserved and appropriate. After the climbing of the rest of party, we headed to “Siurana Camping”. As we didn’t make a booking in advance and it was after 10PM by the time we got the camping, we were almost left stranded under the freezing Siurana, but barely admitted in the “Communal room” where there are approx. 10 beds inside a cabin (with a stove).
Main Street in Tremp
Random periphery at Tremp
 
寒さと霧は益々悪化し、レスト日和なのでTremp観光、というよりは氷点下スレスレの中、寒中散歩。教会やらスーパーやらカフェなど温かいシェルターを求め転々と時間を潰す。コースランチやらデザートで場つなぎしていたカフェ(その名も「Umami」)にてピックアップしてもらい翌日からのSiurana転戦のため移動。Balaguerのバルで軽い夕食を食べ、蛇行する山道を突き進みSiurana Camping (同行者は前ツアーで滞在済)に到着した時には22時過ぎでバーが閉まる23時前に滑り込みセーフ。ギリギリベッドにも空きが有り助かった。
Umami @ Tremp
Citadel sitting on top of the city of Balaguer
Yellow ribbons are ubiquitous (in the context of Catalan Independence)
Siurana
12/30 (Can Melafots & Ca La Isabel)
Breakfasting outside was more bearable than I had imagined and the gradually rising sunshine helped a lot. “Can Melafots” is within 10mins walk from the camp and populated with many climbers (and general tourists alike) assumingely thanks to the south-facing warm location and relatively climbable line-ups. In contrast to Bruixes’ juggy tufas, Siurana is generally characterized by smaller and non-juggy crimps. Despite having some hard time to adjust with smaller holds and the initial bouldery moves (due to the cliff formation of the crag that has overhangs in the beginning), enjoyed some nice and technical routes.
Camping Siurana
またまた氷点下付近の寒空の下、Siuranaでは野外で朝食。寒いが日が射して来ると温かい。今パーティの単独ドライバー様はレストのため、残り2名で歩いていける Can Melafots へ。昨晩は夜間で只管に蛇行する山道に食傷気味だったが、壮大なシウラナ全容が見えていれば、道中も楽しかったであろうに。Can Melafotsは陽が一日中当たり、易しいグレードも豊富なので人気エリアの模様。岩壁の形状のため出だしのハング核心が多く、ホールドもガバばかりではないので、個人の登攀としては終始しどろもどろだったが、年末休みと重なってか観光客も数多く通る脇で、Bruixesとは打って変わって一日中半袖でいたい位のポカポカ陽気を楽しんだ。
Can Melafots @ Siurana 
”Communal room” @ Camping Siurana
12/31 (El Pati, El Cargol & Esperó Primavera)
Combining a mandatory (as a climber) visit to La Rambla, we climbed at the crags nearby El Pati. However, my climbing pathos/eyes didn’t seem to be matured enough to be able to identify the La Rambla line. Each of us tried long routes, nearing 40m scale at El Cargol and Esperó Primavera area. Though these areas are adjacently located and there are many options, but many of manageable (around 7c or lower) are constantly populated with climbers all day long (possibly due to the soaring lines and vibes enabled by long routes). As I might have eaten too much liver pate (which I usually enjoy during overseas tours because of rare availability in Japan) at the dinner, I was too drowsy (with a slight feeling to throw up) to stay awake to celebrate the countdown, but the rest of my party didn’t bother to stay awake either.
 
Ginormous swing at El Pati
La Rambla @ El Pati
La Ramblaの有るEl Patiに参拝させて貰う事に。然しながら、ライン読解力の無さのためか聞いてみてもLa Rambla のラインが良く分からなかった。。付近のEl Cargol と Esperó Primavera エリアにてロングラインを楽しんだ1日。長いスポートルートは日本では中々お目にかかれない事もあってか無条件で楽しく心地よい。恐らくレバーとフォアグラペイストの食べ過ぎで胃もたれが酷かった事もあり、大晦日らしいお祝いやカウントダウンは特に行わず早めの就寝。
La Morena del Montsant (40m) @ El Cargol
Margalef (Racó de les Espadelles)
2019/1/1
Left Siurana Camping for Margalef in the morning, which took around 1 hour winding drive via the town of Cornudella de Montsant (where a mountain shop: Goma Ⅱ is located).
Goma Ⅱ @ Cornudella de Montsant
It is possible to drive back and forth between Siurana and Margalef, but the abundance of accommodations at Margalef (though not many seem to be bookable online) dictated us to find some place to stay at Margalef (as the remaining last 3 days was planned to be spent here). As expected, it didn’t take much time to bump into Refugi de Margalef (El Racó de la Finestra) and booking on the spot has secured the shelter for the rest of our stay in Spain. (To be precise, this Refugi turned out to be very comfy with a very reasonable price and generous facilities)
Refugi de Margalef (El Racó de la Finestra)
Now that we got unencumbered by the possibility to spend a night in the refrigerated car, we headed straight to; Racó de les Espadelles, the biggest area (during winter time when another big “Racó de la Finestra” is in shade) in the crag where we eventually ended up spending the remaining 3 days. From the town to the parking, the hill-climb by car (approx. 2.4 km after the noticeable recycle bins at the skirt of mountain) is pretty steep, winding and narrow (to have a 2-way passage, so it should be safe to assume the path is practically one-way in accordance with the rest of climbers’ flow: up-morning, down-evening) . To our fortune, our apparently feebly powered car (Citroën C3) managed not to get stuck there, but the caution is advised especially during early morning and late evening when the path could potentially get icy.
Parking for Racó de les Espadelles
The approach to Racó de les Espadelles is obvious and short (less than 10 mins until the left-edge of the area) with a bit of fix-roped slope. As obviously noticeable by exterior, the rocks here feature juggy and in-cut pockets that almost-literally bite deep into your skins. Finger skins deserve care and preservation if climbing over consecutive days is planned. Maligna 7c line was very enticing with juggy roof climbing but seems to require plenty time and dedication for me to send during this trip (so gave up after the 1st try). Nonetheless enjoyed the edgy pocket holds combined with steeply hanged walls. Dining space at Refugi de Margalef was in a festive vibe with climbers from various countries clustering around in the same room. 
La gomorra @Racó de les Espadelles
これまた元旦らしさは皆無で淡々と朝飯を食べ、転戦先のMargalefに向かう。Siuranaからは山道を1時間程でSiuranaから通えない事もないが、Margalef自体にも宿は充実している。道中のCornudella de Montsantという小さな町ではGoma Ⅱという登山用品店が便利らしいが年始休暇で休業中であった。Refugi de Margalef (El Racó de la Finestra) という宿の空き状況を確認し、宿事情が片付いた (Margalefが今ツアー最後の訪問地のため) 所で、岩場に向かう。
Curtain of countless rocks at Margalef

冬場に登れるセクターとしては最大級の Racó de les Espadellesに向かう (冬場で無ければ日陰主体の Racó de la Finestraも大きいエリアの模様)。アプローチは急登が2.5 km程続き、朝夕は氷点下まで冷えるためレンタカーで登る場合は慎重に行った方が吉。岩壁は見た目より更にガバで掛りの良いポケットだらけの強傾斜が多く、これでもか!という位掛りの良いホールドが散在している。とはいっても高グレードは傾斜が強く引付け&ロックパワーが生半可では余り勝負出来ない。かっちょいー Maligna 7c を触ってみるものの、泥沼の消耗戦が予見されたので、早々に撤退。指皮消耗が余りに激しそうなので、残り2日の岩場滞在中にレストを入れるか入れまいか、悩みながら、ポケットガバをならしつつ触る。Refugi de Margalef の宿はキッチン、WiFi、暖房、シャワー環境諸々充実しており、各国のクライマーで賑わっていた。

Crowded dining @ Refugi de Margalef 
1/2
Blessing of sunny weather over the last few days at Siurana and Margalef had totally lowered our guard and the foggy and freezing morning inauspiciously reminded us of the hard-cold valleys at Bruixes. Nevertheless, having been pressed by the time constraint of remaining 2 days of climbing, we were at the foggy crag by 9AM. It was when I almost decided to take a rest day before the sky cleared up around 11AM. The accumulating fatigue and worn fingertips didn’t necessarily encourage me to try hard routes, so I enjoyed relatively manageable OS tries. Though our last supper during this tour would be the next dinner, but the departure to airport would be early in the subsequent morning, so we cooked a sumptuous dinner to celebrate the end of a short but cherish-able tour. 
Climbers in dusk @ Racó de les Espadelles
Bruixesを彷彿とさせる朝霧に戦々恐々としながらも、残り2日を有効に使うべく、9時頃には岩場基部に到着。個人的には寒さに心が折れ、完全にレストモードだったが、11時頃にお天道様がお見えになったので、アクティブレストに切り替え。OSトライを楽しむ(というよりはこの時点で今ツアーでのRPトライは店仕舞いモード)。空港への出発が早朝なので、ワイガヤな雰囲気の中、ツアー最後の(豪勢な)晩餐を前倒し。
Cooking facilities enrich the dining @ Refugi de Margalef 
1/3 – 1/4 
The absence of fog in the morning assured us to go ahead to the crag and utilize the last day. The OS tries continued, but with more emphasis on grasping jugs to the point of self-inflicting the laceration on my fingers to satisfy my masochistic climber’s psyche. The 5th day of climbing in a row was more doable than I had imagined but the worn-out fingertips make it harder to grip edgy holds. Leaving aside the desire to abandon the flight ticket and just extend the stay, we mournfully left the crag to prepare the early departure to El Prat Airport in the next morning. 
Some people are really hardcore
La Mainadera @ Margalef
この日は朝から好天に恵まれ、最終日の追い込み日和。結局5連登となったが、限界トライは抑えめにしているので、意外にも消耗した指皮を我慢すればまぁまぁ登れる。石灰岩パラダイスとの暫しのお別れを惜しみつつ、翌早朝に空港へ出発。上海でのトランジットが超属人的オペレーション(看板の案内が乏しく、航空会社のスタッフが声掛けと旗振りに尽力)が最後の印象として残るツアーとなった。
Dawn on the way to El Pati
Topo/Guidebook:
Tarragona Climbs & Lleida Climb
Siurana Guidebook
Margalef Guidebook (2019 Edition was available on Jan-1st!) 

Since “Tarragona Climbs” & “Lleida Climbs” cover a varieties of crags in the region, these are more suited for hopping around multiple crags. For huge crags, such as Siurana and Margalef (that has 82 areas!), the dedicated guidebooks cover more routes and information on each area (sun/shade, recommended season etc.)

備忘録:

  • 年末年始のバルセロナ界隈の日照時間は8時以前,及び18時以降がほぼ真っ暗。太陽がお出ましにならない朝夕は霧が多く温度が低いため岩場で登るのは10〜17時位が快適。山間部は朝靄や霧はしょっちゅうだが、雨は少ない模様。また霧が出ていても10時頃には好天が訪れるパターン(特に@Margalef)が多いとの事。
  • 太陽は偉大。有るか無いかで夏にも冬にもなる。今ツアー1週間だけでも岩場での体感温度差レンジの振れ幅は20度以上。
  • 分かってはいたが、3人だとどうしてもトライ数・時間が限られる。ロングルートだと更に顕著なので、2人か4人以上(というか3人以外)が望ましい。一方で連登するなら、3人位でのらりくらり回すのも寧ろペースを抑えられて結果オーライであったかもしれない。
  • Google Mapはオフラインでも目的地履歴を残してナビ可能なので、宿でWiFiにありつければ、ロジ(宿/車/買物)関係は十二分。
  • 年末年始はどこの岩場も混雑。 クライマーの出身地も点々バラバラ(大体欧州内だが)。場所によっては駐車場や宿にあぶれる可能性もあるレベルなので常にPlan Bを念頭に置いておくのが吉。
Climbing Log:
No. RP on French USA Route Name Result Felt Grade (USA) Crag Area/Rock Days tried Atmps tried
1 12/27 7b 12a/b Jam Sesión MOS 11d Terradets Bruixes 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
2 12/27 6b+ 11a Madroño MOS 11a Terradets Bruixes 1 1
3 12/28 7c+ 12d/13a Energia Positiva RP 12c? Terradets Bruixes 1 2 ☆☆☆☆☆
4 12/30 6b 10c Perseidas RP 10d Siurana Can Melafots 1 2 ☆☆
5 12/30 7a 11c/d Pizza de Pinya RP 11c/d Siurana Can Melafots 1 2 ☆☆☆☆
6 12/30 7a+ 11d/12a Cromañón Climbing RP 12a Siurana Ca La Isabel 1 2 ☆☆☆☆☆
7 12/30 7a 11c/d Ni me n’entero RP V4 Siurana Ca La Isabel 1 2 ☆☆
8 12/30 6c+ 11b/c Garbatx Despistatx MOS 11b Siurana Can Melafots 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
9 12/31 7a 11c/d ¡Ay Mamita! FL 11c Siurana El Cargol 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
10 7b 12a/b Welcome to the Team 12a/b Siurana El Cargol 1 1 ☆☆☆
11 12/31 7a+ 11d/12a La Morena del Montsant FL 11c Siurana El Cargol 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
12 1/1 6c 11a/b Setareh MOS 10d Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
13 1/1 7b 12a/b Draculín MOS 12a Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆☆☆
14 7c 12c/d Maligna 12c/d? Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
15 1/1 6c+ 11b/c Repós actiu MOS 11a Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆
16 1/2 6b+ 11a Tastavins MOS 11a Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆
17 1/2 7a 11c/d Qué pasa Neng? MOS 11a/b Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆
18 1/2 7b 12a/b El carasapo MOS 11c/d Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆
19 1/2 7a 11c/d Franja de ponent MOS 11b Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
20 1/3 6b+ 11a Turmellosi MOS 10d Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆☆
21 1/3 7b 12a/b Amb pal no dóna pal RP 11d Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 2 ☆☆☆☆
22 1/3 7b 12a/b Zona mixta RP 11d Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 2 ☆☆☆
23 1/3 6c 11a/b abanibí MOS 10d Margalef Racó de les Espadelles 1 1 ☆☆☆
Cost Summary (1 EUR= 124JPY):
 

London & Cambridge 2015

2015/10/16 – 2015/10/21

The trip was characterized by family&friend rendezvous-cum-arty&sporty extravaganza-cum-constant muscle sore on my right foot from Day 2.
The multi-faceted city is charming enough to keep me roaming around for hours without dampening my enthusiasm, and comfortably bustling in a way that is not too haphazard.

The privilege of being able to chat with folks with national rugby uniform was another coincidental appeal of the city that I wouldn’t have in any other time.

RWC 2015 @ Twickenham

However, 1) Splurge on one-off events, 2) JPY (very weak at the moment) conversion benchmark ingrained in my mind and 3) exorbitant general price level in London, have all made it imperative for my penny-pinching psyche to skimp on every other spending opportunities imaginable.

As for Cambridge, there wasn’t much too see other than the University as duly expected. However, since the university is immense in terms of its history and impact on the city, I could have enjoyed longer than a half day. The solemnity of architecture and history combined with snobbishness & courteousness of people seem to serve the integrated landscape of the city.

Cambridge

All in all, thanks to the one-off events that I would not get to encounter every so often; family&friend gathering, Rugby World Cup, Les Miserables and concert of Radwimps (my favorite Japanese band), this money hemorrhage trip has offered me way beyond what I had to pay.

10/16 (Fri):
20-minutes packing seems to have equipped me just right amount of stuff that I need, as with all other previous last-minute trip preparations.
After a 2-hour layover at Istanbul, the arrival at an unidentifiable airport (in England) made me realize how naive I was to assume that budget airlines are allowed to land on a periphery of a major airport (as opposed to an airport in the middle of nowhere). No offence to Stansted, though..
Despite the lack of prior research (which I usually do), spontaneous roam-around from Liverpool Street has given me a glimpse of bits and pieces of London.

City of London

Bank of England
St. Paul’s Cathedral
Covent Garden

Moomin Shop @ Covent Garden
China Town

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ending the first night with Les Miserables was categorically stunning, and it is by no means an overstatement. I would particularly recommend for those who are not keen in musical to watch the show .

Queen’s Theatre
Inside Queen’s Theatre (No video/photo accepted during the show)

Opting to walk for 40 mins to save the money, I disturbed the sleep of my brother-in-law (who is studying/interviewing in London), my sister, roommate and roommate’s wife by ringing the doorbell at 23:20 (which is moderately annoying, but the fact that it was a Friday night shall deserve some annoyance discount)

 

Stansted Airport – Liverpool Street St – Royal Exchange – Bank of England – Millennium Bridge – St. Paul’s Cathedral – “Temple” – Kings College London – Somerset House – Covent Garden – China Town – “Les Miserables” @ Queen’s Theatre – stay nearby Regents Park

10/17 (Sat):
Officially took a moment of reunion with my sister and her husband in the late morning. Though my sister lives in Barcelona at the moment, it was worthwhile to suggest this family rendezvous for this occasion. Ensuing the late morning catchup, we went out to London Business School in the vicinity till St John’s Wood where posh residences cluster and we had an English Breakfast as a brunch.

St John’s Wood

After a tube (or metro/subway/whatever transport with rails underneath that non-London people prefer to call) ride to Green Park, we had a slow cozy stroll, covering major tourist spots into the busier part of the city.

Pond in Hyde Park
Street leading to Buckingham Palace
Trafalgar Square
Big Ben

As per my strong request, we stopped by at a random pub to watch RWC: South Africa vs Wales. Deservingly, Wales seemed to have garnered a larger local support, but the cheering for SA was also present in the pub. In contrast to somewhat declining interests of my company, the match (South Africa vs Wales: 23 to 19) has multiplied my enthusiasm as well as the sense of regret for not being in the Twickenham Stadium (especially despite being in London).

South Africa vs Wales @ Pub

Together with a friend of the husband, we had a lobster munching dinner near Royal Exchange, and that was superb too. After the dinner we moved to SOHO to join the birthday party of another friend of his. Despite my initial attempts for being a decent human being, it didn’t take long to re-confirm my social ineptness and abscond from the bar.

London Business School – St John’s Wood – Green Park – Hyde Park – Buckingham Palace – St James’s Park – Big Ben – 10 Downing Street – Trafalgar Square – Covent Garden – RWC watching @ The Coal Hole – Millennium Bridge – St. Paul’s Cathedral – Burger & Lobster near Royal Exchange – Bar @ SOHO

10/18 (Sun):
Due to some morning ruckus caused by a call from Doha, I wasn’t able to see off my sister who was leaving in the morning, but that’s fine. As our family’s diaspora living style is likely to continue for a foreseeable future, we do seem to take if for granted that we would re-group again, wherever it might be.
Even though the RWC match in the previous day has cemented my determination to go watch at Twickenham, the exorbitant price on the official site: 215 £ had been deterring me from making up the final mind, and made me constantly re-visit the website for every 5 minutes to see if the lower-priced tickets got available. My stinginess has finally paid off and I managed to secure a 150 £ ticket, saving by 65 £. However, later I found out that last-minute ticket sellers were abound near the Twickenham, desperately seeking to sell the tickets for 50£ (Granted, the seat might not offer the nicest view, but I shouldn’t have asked the price out of curiosity).

The high sentiment on the upcoming match was palpable at Richmond St, which is still approx. 2km away from the stadium. After watching the first half of Argentina vs Ireland at a Fanzone (public viewing space for RWC) in Richmond, I hopped on a free shuttle bus to Twickenham.

Scottish (Gaelic) Kilt @ RWC 2015 Fanzone

Despite being 1.5 hours before the match, the stream of people to the stadium was unceasing from Twickenham St.

Twickenham Stadium

Having undecided which team to root for, I asked to have my face painted with Japanese flag at a random booth that was giving a free face painting.
The seat of my last-minute purchased ticket barely allowed me a comfortable view (likewise, the people seated in my row seem to be all the last minute purchasers.), but I was just euphoric to be able to feel the rising sensation of the stadium right on the spot.
The initial 5 -10 minutes gave me the apprehensive hunch that the match would be dominated by Wallabies’ relentless forwards, but Scotland demonstrated the consistent defense, and managed to turn the tide, ending the first half with a few points lead against Australia.
Inspired by their tenacious play against the odds, I took a Scottish side by this time.
As with any other audience of the match (probably regardless of location and team to cheer for) , I was glued to the 2nd half with the mix of frenzied excitement and slight foreboding. Notwithstanding the final result (Australia vs Scotland: 35 to 34), the match had a series of climaxes and it was indeed valuable to feel the vibe at the stadium. Sincere kudos to Scotland and Australia.

Paddington – Richmond – RWC Fanzone @ Richmond – Twickenham Stadium – Gourmet Burger Kitchen @ Baker Street

10/19 (Mon):
Another day of touring around London, but this time by myself. It seems to have become my self-imposed duty to see as many touristy spots as possible during the stay.

London National Gallery

Clueless mobs (myself included) magnetized to Van Gogh’s Sunflower
London Eye
Borough Market

Tower of London(“Castle” seems more legit description)
Feline Statues @ Tower of London

Cultural facets and changing landscape of London kept me going, but I grew tired by the evening after the day-long wandering. The additional 2 hour long queuing and waiting for the concert didn’t make things better, to say the least, but as soon as the band appeared my exhaustion had totally vanished.

Radwimps @ London (2015)
1st time real live (for me) became a blast
Since No photo was allowed, these are the sneak-shots (of course no video was taken)

Though I wished to have witnessed the greater proportion of non-Asian audience representation (which would have been the proof that the band has a broader range of universal appeal), the live was a total blast.

Piccadilly Circus – National Gallery – Waterloo – London Eye – National Theatre – Borough Market – London Bridge – Monument (of Great Fire of London in 1666) – Tower of London – Tower Bridge – Angel (N1 Center)

10/20 (Tue):
After the morning dash to Baker Street, involving sister’s husband and inadvertently robbing 4.8 £ as a tube fare to Liverpool Street, I safely arrived Cambridge around the noon.

Cambridge
Cambridge

The city resides in a University, and because of the abundant history and implications of the university, the city is generous in exhibiting its solemnity and pomposity (as demonstrated in the open permission to let visitors into many colleges and facilities of the university).

Polar Museum @ Cambridge
Tutankhamun (or whoever Egyptian Pharaoh) @ Fitzwiliam Museum
University of Cambridge
Cambridge

Cambridge Rugby Union Football Club (RUFC)
Cambridge RUFC

Notwithstanding the noticeable lack of enthusiasm for reunion with me, my last mission of visiting a 2 decades-long (rounded up) friend of mine from elementary school has been accomplished.

Corpus Clock, which was unveiled by Stephen Hawking

Random Vegitarian Supper

Liverpool Street St – Stansted Airport – Cambridge – Polar Museum – Fitzwilliam Museum – Cambridge Rugby Football Club – King’s College – Clare College – Trinity College – St. James’s College – – Stansted Airport

10/21 (Wed) – 10/22 (Thu):
My longest layover spent at Sabiha Gokcen airport. Purchased “Blink” by Malcolm Gladwell, and finished two-third of the book. It was that long, and I’m a quite slow reader.

“Blink” by Malcolm Gladwell @ Sabiha Gokcen airport

Benchmark expenses:
1 GBP = 185 JPY = 5.6 QAR = 1.5 USD

4 clusters of bananas: 1.3 £ (the very first thing I purchased in England out of modest starvation and frugality)
National Express Bus (Stansted Airport – Liverpool St) : 8 £
Les Miserables @ Dress Circle: 97.5 £ (plus 10 £ as a booking fee. Box office tickets are cheaper, but with a limited availability.)
English breakfast @ posh cafe in St John’s Wood: 10 £
Lobster @ Burger & Lobster: 20 £
RWC Category B ticket: 150 £ at official site
RWC Category D (lowest) ticket: 50 £ at the last minute sale around the stadium (official price: 90 £)
Rent in 2LK apartment near Baker St: 2,000 £/Month (which necessitates room-sharing for young inhabitants)
Utility for such flat:200£/Month
Radwimps Concert (which could also be abbreviated as RWC): 35 £
National Express Bus (Liverpool St – Cambridge): 12 £ (which could be as low as 6 £)
Chicken Burger + Chips : 5 £
Train (Cambridge – Stansted): 12.7 £
“Blink”: 27.5 Turkish Lira (approx. 10 USD)
Fast food meal @ Sabiha Gokcen: 20 TL (approx. 7 USD)

武士がぶつかり合うラグビーの見応えといったら、シミュレーションとかで滑った転んだ騒いでいるサッカー、並びに殆ど全ての球技が滑稽に思えてしまう位なわけです。
常人が入り込める精神世界ではなく、プレイヤーとしての自分を思い返すと、誇れる事なんか微塵もないし、2度とやりたくありませんが、武士がガチンコで鎬を削る姿は、この2世紀分位闘いを忘れて腑抜けきった闘争本能を擽るわけです。
言ってしまえば、蚊帳の外から左団扇で羨望してるだけ。その上、ラグビーほど(努力を一蹴する様な)シビアな現実を突き付けられる球技は中々ありません。それでも、武士になり損ねた我らに、感動と鼓舞を与えてくれるラグビーは素晴らしく、似非ラグビーファンとしてお祭りに便乗出来たのは幸いでした。

そんなラグビーの根幹にはノーサイド (ホイッスルがなれば敵味方隔てなく皆兄妹) とアマチュアリズム (商業主義に走らない) があるのですが、(芋臭いオーストラリアとスコットランドの試合だったからか)試合後にも続くブーイングや異常に高いチケットの値段に若干萎えました。ただ、そんな些細な事を凌駕するスコッティッシュの踏ん張りにあっぱれでした。